The Beauty of Chilean Patagonia, and the Struggle to Protect It

By: 
Berklee Lowrey-Evans

I was lucky enough to spend the first two weeks of March 2011 in Chile. It was my first time back in the country in 4 years, since I spent a semester studying in the capital of Santiago. Last time I was there I was concerned with getting to class on time, figuring out the bus system, and trying to understand all the chilean sayings, such as al tiro – right away, and bacán – cool. This time, I was still struggling to keep up with the sayings, but I was also concerned with meeting as many of the members of the Consejo de Defensa de la Patagonia Chilena as possible and visiting the areas of Patagonia that would be affected by the proposed HidroAysén project.

The Osorno volcano and a river near Puerto Varas, Chile.
The Osorno volcano and a river near Puerto Varas, Chile.
Berklee Lowrey-Evans, March 2011

After a few days spent in meetings in Santiago, I headed south. My first stop was Puerto Varas to meet with the staff at Parque Pumalín, one of the campaign partners. Although Patagonia has no formal boundaries, some people think that Puerto Varas is the northern tip of the region. Regardless of this designation, it's a place of amazing beauty, with volcanoes and lakes everywhere.

From there, I flew down to the heart of Patagonia – Coyhaique – which is also the headquarters of one of our main partners in the region, Aisén Reserva de Vida. Although nearly all of the organizations we're partnering with in Chile are small and underfunded, they've managed to do some really amazing work throughout this campaign.

My time in Coyhaique was spent in strategic meetings with local partners and community groups, who together represent a wide array of interests in the region. They are environmentalists, business owners, youth organizers, river guides, and the Bishop for the region, Luis Infante. They all have great ideas for growing the movement in the region and beyond, and I was honored to have been a part of their strategy session.

Peter and Daniela contemplate the power of the Río Baker.
Peter and Daniela contemplate the power of the Río Baker.
Berklee Lowrey-Evans, March 2011

On Thursday March 10, I set out on a tour of some other important parts of Patagonia: Cochrane, Caleta Tortel, El Manzano, Bahía Murta, and an uncountable number of breathtaking lakes and mountains. My guide was Peter Hartmann, the director of Aisén Reserva de Vida and long-time environmental activist; we were also joined by Daniela – a young activist, artist and soon-to-be lawyer who's worked with the campaign for many years, and for part of the trip by Enrique – a paleontologist and advisor for the Global Greengrants Fund.

We spent the night of the tsunami warning in the coastal town of Caleta Tortel. Due to last February's earthquake and resulting tsunami in central Chile, the whole coast of the country went into high alert at the possibility of another disaster; the lower part of this small, car-free town was evacuated and we shared our bed and breakfast with some local tsunami evacuees. Caleta Tortel is located on the hillside at the mouth of the Río Baker, where it empties into one of the numerous fjords that carve up southern Patagonia. Because it's perched on the water, it's particularly vulnerable to flooding that is already happening from the Glacial Lake Outburst Floods (GLOFs) of the Cachet II Lake, which would likely be worse if the HidroAysén dams are built.

2011 protest for Day of Action Against Dams and For Rivers at El Manzano on the Río Baker in Patagonia, Chile
2011 protest for Day of Action Against Dams and For Rivers at El Manzano on the Río Baker in Patagonia, Chile
Berklee Lowrey-Evans, March 2011

My time wrapped up with a weekend spent in activities for the International Day of Action Againt Dams and For Rivers. A cultural event was held on Saturday in Cochrane with many local musicians, activists and kid-friendly activities. Sunday morning we went over to a gathering and protest at a part of the Baker called El Manzano. There were moving speeches, colorful banners and lots of people. Afterwards – in true Latin American style – there was a shared meal where the music continued and alliances were strengthened.

Overall, it was an amazing trip with breathtaking landscapes and inspiring people. I can't wait to go back.

P.S. Later this week, I'll blog about the recently submitted final addenda to the project EIA, the poll showing that the majority of Chileans against the project is growing, and the upcoming events happening in the US and Chile in support of the campaign.